Libyan authorities fight a daily battle as thousands risk crossing the desert under a scorching sun in hope of a better life.
The Deadly Desert: The Opening Scene
They call it the “Great Sand Sea,” and the name is no exaggeration. The desert expanse that stretches from western Egypt to eastern Libya is a vast space of nothingness; hot winds whip the sand into ripples like sea waves, and dust storms can bury living creatures in seconds. Little survives here: a few desert plants clinging to a crumb of moisture, and a handful of creatures that have adapted to these conditions over thousands of years. This is certainly not a land for humans, which is why all those tragic remains are seen.
The journalist, author of the article, Isabel Oakeshott in Libya, accompanied by — from left to right — Major General Ghaith Al-Haddad and Major General Khaled Al-Sarir, tasked with combating illegal immigration.
The Path of Hundreds of Thousands Across the Sand
Dry bones break through scorched sand, bleached by a searing sun, standing as a grim warning of the terrible fate that awaits those who try to cross this wasteland. Yet this is the route taken by hundreds of thousands of sub-Saharan Africans, hoping to reach the West and perhaps find a new life in the United Kingdom. Every week, irregular migrants from Sudan, Eritrea, Chad, and Niger stream across the border into Libya, hoping it will truly be the “gateway to Europe.”
Libya’s Choice: Let Them Pass or Stop Them?
The Libyan authorities have two options: do as the French are accused of doing in Calais, and wave the migrants on? Or do the UK and other desired destinations a favour, and try to stop Libya being used as a transit route?
A War on the Borders and the Coast
With no support from the UK government, and little from the EU, it has chosen the latter. For the Libyan National Army, which oversees most of the effort, it is a war on land and sea, focused on the entry points in the south, especially the desert triangle where the borders of Sudan, Egypt, and Libya meet, as well as on the exit points on the Mediterranean coast. The goal: to stop and detain as many migrants as possible before they reach any shore.
Recovering Bodies… A Tragic Routine
Once or twice a month, long convoys of 4×4 border guard vehicles drive from the end of the last paved road in Libya deep into the desert, searching for the living and the dead. During a routine operation last week, five bodies were recovered. Not much was left of these wretched people whose dream ended under the scorching heat: skeletons and skulls held together by remnants of clothing. Red Crescent volunteers, wearing masks and gloves, did what they could to recover the bodies with dignity, sliding them into black bags for a proper burial.
One in Four Perishes in the Desert
It’s a grim task, but one that has become familiar to the authorities: it is estimated that one in four migrants who try to cross the desert dies. They pay people smugglers for seats on pick-up trucks, but—like Channel dinghies—these are often unroadworthy and overloaded. When they get stuck in the sand, passengers are forced to get out and walk.
Sanctions Restrict Tools
The Libyan National Army says what it really needs to manage a crisis spanning thousands of square kilometres is helicopters and drones, but it cannot get them because of UN sanctions. The years-long embargo on imports of anything with potential military use is a legacy of the chaos that engulfed Libya after the fall of Colonel Muammar Gaddafi in 2011. At the time, David Cameron—who led an international campaign of airstrikes and missile attacks on the dictator’s forces—believed he had helped liberate the country from a tyrant. In the streets of Benghazi, grateful crowds hailed him as a hero. He pledged to stand by them as they rebuilt their country. But Libya descended into utter chaos, and he and the rest of the international community disappeared from the scene.
A Chaotic West and a “Government” in Name Only
Today, western Libya remains a dangerous mess of warring militias, drug traffickers, and illicit arms dealers. Ironically, this is where the internationally recognised “Government of National Unity” is based. The name is a misnomer; its authority barely extends to Tripoli, let alone beyond. Based in the most volatile part of the country, this administration seems like a powerless stop-gap, waiting for national elections that never come.
A Rising East: A Picture of Benghazi Today
In contrast, peace seems to have returned to the east, where Benghazi is booming. Today, the city centre is a tranquil scene of seafood restaurants, cafes serving fresh honey and almond croissants, and others in lush open-air courtyards.
Roads better than their counterparts in Britain.
New shopping centres gleam with high-end fashion and sports stores. Some big brands—I spotted Adidas, Mamusu, and Omega—are already here; others are on their way.
Waterfront Development Deals
The traffic is annoying, but the roads are noticeably better than ours. It might remind you of Tunisia or old Dubai, not least because the UAE state-owned company Emaar seems to be everywhere. A deal has apparently been struck with the Emiratis to develop nearly 10 kilometres of the coastline. Luxury hotels, elegant residential and commercial towers—and even a golf course—are being built. Meanwhile, city planners are creating parks and lakes and erecting seven new bridges. In short, a city with a troubled past is pushing hard into a new era.
The Memory of Violence Lingers
Amid this sense of renewal, it is hard to imagine that the Islamic State group was once wreaking havoc here. The residents are still haunted by the atrocities it committed: decapitated heads hung from bridges; families forced to flee for their lives as RPGs shelled residential neighbourhoods.
From the US Consulate to the Ruins of the Old City
It was here that US Ambassador Christopher Stevens lost his life, along with two CIA contractors, when Islamic extremists attacked the US embassy in 2012. A small part of the Old City still looks like Gaza or Homs: demolished apartment blocks leaning on piles of rubble, and an exposed staircase left hanging precariously when the outer walls were blown off and buildings became hollow shells.
A Monument to Memory… And Crossing into the Future
There is talk of keeping a small part of this as a “monument” to a terrible time, but Benghazi has already moved on from the past. Officially, eastern Libya—which contains the vast majority of the country’s oil and gas—is still under the control of General Khalifa Haftar, whose forces drove out the jihadists five years ago, but power is now passing to his sons. A younger generation with big ideas and a very different style of leadership.
Saddam Haftar: A New Generation and a Different Style
Saddam Haftar is still in his thirties, a fan of skydiving and adventure sports, and has an Instagram page. He is described as a modernist, gradually moving away from historical ties with Russia and building new relationships with Western allies.
Foreign Visits and Messages to the West
In recent months, he has made official visits to Washington (where he met with Trump’s senior adviser, Massad Boulos), Italy, and France. Contributing to helping the West stem the tide of irregular migrants flowing from the African coast to Europe is just a small part of a broader effort to show that Libya is ready to play a positive role on the international stage again.
Returning Refugees… And Preventing Access to the Shores
Although their hands are “tied” by sanctions—undoubtedly justified by the chaos in Tripoli, but seemingly unfair in the east—the immigration authorities are doing what they can to help the EU and the UK. Each month, they return hundreds of Sudanese refugees who could have reached Britain, where 99 percent of them are granted asylum. Without media fanfare, these people are simply returned to parts of their country that the authorities deem safe.
Tactics at Sea: Without Advanced Equipment
In exclusive interviews with The Telegraph, navy and coastguard officials explained that they have no qualms about stopping boats, sometimes enlisting commercial vessels. They operate without the advantage of the sophisticated surveillance systems and extravagant search-and-rescue vessels that British and French border forces have at their disposal, but choose not to use to turn back dinghies in the English Channel. Because of the sanctions, neither the navy nor the coastguard can import spare parts for their aging fleet.
“Crushing Gangs” Literally
Despite the imperfect equipment, there is no shortage of determination. In “Haftar’s Benghazi,” gangs are being “crushed,” almost literally. Polished videos of raids on people smugglers show soldiers using battering rams to storm gang dens.
Tackling the “Source”… A Concept Gaining Meaning
In Britain, left-wingers often talk about tackling the irregular migration crisis “at source.” I never paid it much attention before; “fixing Africa” seems like a counsel of despair. But it seems there’s something to it. What logic is there in not supporting practical measures on the front lines—as in Libya? Charities and NGOs will object, complaining about human rights, and they may have a point. Although Libyan immigration officials insist they treat detainees well, their idea of what they call “international standards” may not match ours. And when they read about the luxury hotel stays and other comforts we provide for asylum seekers, they think we’re mad. Still, the leaders in this part of Libya want the world to see how the country is changing. And they are too smart not to know that human rights abuses do not attract foreign investors or luxury brands.
Apprehensive on Arrival… Reassured on Departure
I landed in Libya feeling apprehensive, having travelled against Foreign Office advice. I left wondering why the east is still considered dangerous. Google will tell you the Haftars are “warlords,” and it is true that they were. No doubt there are dark undercurrents to how they operate—as is often the case in authoritarian regimes with abundant natural resources. But under strong leadership with big visions, people can—and do—live good lives.
The Citizens of Benghazi are Grateful to Those in Power Today
And as the ordinary citizens of Benghazi go about their business in the warm sun, untroubled by bearded extremists with Kalashnikovs enforcing sick interpretations of Islam, I suspect they are grateful to those in power today.